1. Field of the Invention
The invention relates to gem settings; and, more particularly, to a gem setting comprised of a plurality of interconnected links and a method for assembling the same.
2. Description of the Prior Art
Various methods of assembling settings for retaining gem stones therein are known in the art.
Casting or Lost Wax Process
This is the most traditional method of setting stones. It is the main method of production which has all of the components in one unit necessary to set multiple stones for jewelry that is flexible. However, the labor intensity of producing jewelry by the use of this method is extremely timely and costly. The setting is often used to set valuable stones and offers only one measure of security as compared to applicant's method which secures the stone four ways. The following describes the method of production.
Method of Production
The lost wax process requires one skilled laborer to manually make a wax model of the setting design by hand. The mold is then placed into plaster of paris which is in a liquid form. The mold and plaster is then placed into an oven where they are baked, so that the plaster hardens and the wax liquifies. The plaster is removed from the oven and the liquid wax is drained when a hole is made into the plaster. The plaster now has an impression made of the wax model. The impression is filled with liquid karat gold or base metal. The metal is dispersed by either centrifugal force or a vacuum process. The hot liquid metal solidifies as it becomes cool. The next step is to break open the plaster and remove the setting. The setting is rough in form and must be lapped to remove the excess material that forms as a result of the lost wax process and then polished for shine and smoothness. A second skilled laborer takes the setting and solders a hinge to one side and drills a hole to the other side in order to produce a multiple setting. The hinge of one setting is attached to the hole of another setting and the process is repeated until one reaches the desired length. If a single setting is desired, then the setting must be soldered onto a base; e.g., ring base, earring cup, etc.
A third laborer actually sets the stones with great manual dexterity. The prongs of the setting have a slight ledge where the stone rests. Only the widest diameter of the stone rests on the ledge. The stone is held into place by the prongs which are bent at the tips to slightly cover the stones locking them into place. The prongs are manually pressed to hold the stone in place. A disadvantage is that the prongs are made of fine strips of metal which easily and often break or loosen due to the holding means weakening. When this happens, the stone falls out and may be lost.
Wire Forming
Another method used to set stones is wire forming. A piece of flattened wire is shaped into a desired form to frame a stone. The wire is beveled inside so that the stone can be held by the widest diameter which fits into the beveled edge. A gap can be made at each end of the setting to allow a connecting ring to join the setting to another setting of the same method or additional jewelry parts. This method offers the stone little security as the metal is flexible and soft. The stone can easily fall out. This method is usually used for inexpensive stones.
Snap Settings
This type of setting uses a setting made from sheet metal that has been die cut. The die cut design is molded to resemble a setting that is cast. The setting, according to the manufacturer, is used solely for setting individual stones for rings and earrings. If one were to produce this setting for multiple stones, one would follow the same process as that of casting. The advantage of this setting is that one is able to produce a large quantity of the settings by die cutting the settings. The disadvantage is that one must solder the settings to a base and the setting itself only secures the widest diameter of the stone by its prongs. If one were to convert this setting to a multiple setting, it may be possible to solder a hinge and drill a hole and solder the hinge to the hole. Again, like casting, as in the method previously discussed, this is labor intensive, costly and requires three skilled laborers.
Channel Settings
In this method of forming settings, channels are soldered onto a base with the inner space between the two channels being the same diameter as the stone. There is a ledge below the top of the channel on the inside of the channel where the widest diameter of the stones rest. The channels are then manually squeezed together to hold the stones into place. Again, it is easy for the channels to loosen and the stones to fall out since this method offers only the security of the pressure of the channels against the widest diameter of the stones. Channel settings are made by the last wax process. The channels and the base are one unit. Like casting, they require a hinge to be soldered, a hole to be drilled and lapping for flexible multiple links. The settings must then be lapped. To set stones by the channel method, it is more laborious than casting. Fewer finished products are made per hour and per day than casting. Channel settings require more precious metal than settings made by casting, which makes them more expensive to produce.
In conclusion, in the past, some gems are set into conventional settings by inserting them into an opening and bending tops of prongs manually inwardly to cover the widest diameter of the stone and secure it in place. Some settings are preformed with such prongs. Of course, such preformed prongs must be carefully machined. Some gems are set into channel settings which are then carefully squeezed to hold the gem in place. Of course, this is done manually and one must be careful so as not to damage the gem. Wire forming secures only the widest diameter of the stone and is used primarily for inexpensive stones as the method offers a poor level of security.
There is a need for quickly and easily producing jewelry parts, such as clasps, chains, etc. wherein links retaining gem stones therein can be interconnected quickly and easily without need for soldering or connecting rings or both. There is also a need for setting stones more securely then those of prior methods.